Use Premium Pit Polish to add the finishing touch to all windshield repairs and plate glass repairs. It quickly removes razor blade scrape marks from glass repair resin, leaving a perfectly smooth and transparent finish in just a few seconds. Premium Pit Polish also works fantastic on all glass, plastic and acrylic surfaces.
Delta Kits Premium Pit Resin – not just thicker versions of fill resins, the chemistry targets a specific purpose. Premium Pit Resin formulations provide a hard, smooth cured surface for maximum resistance to weather, wiper abrasion, chemicals, etc. In addition, the higher viscosity of pit resins help it to stay in place on vertical surfaces while the curing tab is applied.
Overall, injection resins formulations are for maximum elasticity (flex). Basically, as the glass expands and contracts, due to changing temperatures and body flex, the injection resin expands and contracts with it. This is important for all types of damage and essential for star breaks and cracks.
- Nominal viscosity 1900cps
- Exceptional bonding strength
- Excellent durability to withstand wiper wear, car washes and constant exposure to the elements
- Outstanding optical clarity
- Fast curing
- Low acrylic acid content
- Recommended for ambient temperatures below 100° F
From the Archives
If you have been a Delta Kits customer for very long, you probably know that we recommend drilling only as a last resort. For the very best cosmetic results, only drill when you are unable to get the resin to flow into the break any other way. That said, we have plenty of customers that do drill, so here are a couple of things to think about.
First, your drill hole itself is going to be quite visible, so drill as shallow as possible (or not at all). Second, remember that when you drill, resin will often drain from that drill hole and leave a small, shiny, or black air bubble. Pit resin is just too thick to flow down into the bottom of your drill hole, so that air is just trapped there as the pit resin is applied. Air bubbles can also be incorporated into the drill hole from trapped air in the tip of the pit resin bottle or from applying a curing tab improperly.
Storing your pit resin bottle upside down for at least five minutes before starting the repair will eliminate any chance of air bubbles in the pit resin itself. Make a habit of doing this for every repair, and keep the bottle upside down as you remove the cap and apply the resin. Turning the bottle upright at any time causes air bubbles in the tip which will squeeze out with the resin.
Don’t drill unless you can’t get the resin in any other way. If you have to drill, make sure you never go deeper than 2/3 through the outer lite and try to angle your drill hole toward the bottom of the windshield so the resin is less apt to flow out. Place the lower edge of a curing tab below the drill hole. Be careful to hold the tab away from the hole while applying the pit resin. Apply a drop of pit resin at the point where the tab meets the glass. Allow the tab to slowly cover the hole. This procedure uses the pit resin to push any thin resin that has seeped from the hole back into the hole before the pit resin covers it, minimizing the chance of trapping an air bubble.
Following these simple steps will greatly minimize the chance of trapping air in a drill hole. But if you follow these directions and still have a small air bubble under your pit resin. First, lift the top edge of the curing tab just enough to access the drill hole. Second, apply another drop of pit resin directly on top of the drill hole. Then use a sewing needle to work the bubble out of the hole. Finally, allow the tab to gently fold back over the hole while slowly removing the needle. The key here is to use the curing tab. Create a small pool of pit resin on top of the hole. So when the bubble is removed it is immediately replaced by pit resin. Voilà, no more bubble in the drill hole…. Continue Reading